#Note: Find full B&O review list at the bottom.
When you're getting a B&O speaker, you never pay just for the functionality.
You always pay a significant amount for its lovely style as well.
For this reason, when deciding between Beoplay A9 vs Beosound Edge, I'd highly recommend you to check out the B&O AR Experience app before buying.
Using your smartphone camera, it simulates how each B&O speakers would exactly look like in your own already furnished home.
Beosound Edge is listed at 3,500 - 3,800 USD and Beoplay A9 at 3,000 - 3,250 USD - depending on the color selections.
Overall winner for me.
You see, these speakers are far from being cheap, so I'd recommend you to read this relatively short post entirely, but if you're looking for a summary, here it is:
- Inside an apartment flat: You'd probably better get a Beoplay A9.
- For large estates (like mansions) and/or for commercial uses (restaurants, stores, etc): Keep in mind that Beosound Edge propagates the sound on both ends, and then proceed at your own taste for their looks.
Now let's get to their bolts and nuts.
As I clarified in my previous post, Beoplay A9 is pretty strong.
Disregard them. They're for the 3rd generation Beoplay A9, which is discontinued.
I contacted the B&O Customer Service about this as well (mail history at the bottom of this post) and shared my findings in the table below.
So much that if you're living in an apartment flat without any soundproofing, then let alone full volume, you probably wouldn't even need to / be able to use it at half of its power.
In larger spaces, Beosound Edge is even stronger than the Beoplay A9, but that's mainly because it propagates the sound on both ends (more on this in a minute).
If you place both Beosound Edge and Beoplay A9 in the corner or in front of the wall, Beoplay A9 might even sound stronger than the Beosound Edge.
But the most important take away here is that if you're living in an apartment flat, I'd recommend you to disregard the difference between their powers. They're both much stronger than enough.
1 x 400 Watt class D for bass
2 x 200 Watt class D for midrange
2 x 200 Watt class D for fullrange
2 x 150 Watt class D for treble
2 x 200 Watt (woofer)
4 x 100 Watt (mid-ranges/tweeters)
1 x 8" Woofer
2 x 3" Midrange
2 x ¾" Tweeter
2 x 1½” Full-range
1 x 10” dual coil woofer
2 x 4” midrange
2 x 3/4” tweeter
100 dB SPL
104 dB SPL
95 dB SPL
92 dB SPL
Bass capability refers to producing high basses. Generally speaking, the more the bass capability, the less the distortion with the songs with strong basses.
However, you won't be able to notice the 3 dB of difference - even if you have a PhD on these speakers.
Let me tell you something right off the bat.
The sound quality performance you'll end up getting from a speaker will always depend on your room acoustics - particularly room dimensions and speaker positions.
The impact of the combination of these two is actually so strong that in most cases, it doesn't even make sense to utter a single word on sound quality without speaking of them.
This is also why it's not unusual to see completely different reviews of the same speaker.
In one case the speaker might be placed in a sweet spot inside the room and hence the user might be satisfied. In other cases the same speaker might be ill placed and hence user might even have returned it.
The point most people miss here is that it mostly isn't even about the engineering behind the speaker itself. It's about where you place the speaker inside which room.
So, in order to solve this problem, I've partnered with Acoustics and Audio Engineering PhD Andrea Cicero from AC Acustica and created Soundton - a simple, 2D, browser accessible online speaker placement calculator.
With Soundton, now there's a way to figure the sound quality of most speakers before you buy them.
Read more about its working principles at soundton.com/documentation/.
The end colormap provides you the locations with the best (green) and worst (red) acoustics.